The first time I have seen photos of Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine is in 2007. I have known nothing about Patagonia then and I have been so deeply impressed by the peaks' shapes that being there has become a priority for me. A year later I arrive at El Calafate airport. It is towards evening, the sky is dusky and cloudy, and somewhere near the horizon lenticular clouds of Patagonia are taking place. The wind is blowing over the blossomed chamomile among the spine steppe bushes and I feel like standing at the end of the world. And I am there, in fact. The next ten days I meet and feel the endless steppe, hurricane winds, severe peaks lit by fire-coloured sunrises, and part of my heart stays here forever.